Italian Ricotta/Mascarpone Cheesecakes

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On a trip to Manhatten a few years ago Daniel and I were taken to a neighborhood restaurant around the corner from a childhood friend who we were visiting.  We fell in love with it and went there a few nights for dinner.  The following year when we returned, we went back once again. There are two recipes on this blog from the restaurant: Veal and Ricotta Meatballs and this recipe for Mascarpone Cheesecake. Developing this recipe, as well as the one for the meatballs, took quite a bit of tinkering, since the restaurant refused to share, but in the end, both recipes are straightforward and easy to execute.

The recipe for the Mascarpone Cheesecake is particularly poignant for me.  It was the last trip Daniel and would take together for the foreseeable future as he was in college and the remaining summers he would devote to lab work and internships. We spent our days looking for the the best bagel in NYC, looking for a cannoli to rival my grandmothers (didn’t exist in NYC or Brooklyn), and sampling a dozen pastry shops.

COMPONANTS

  • Cheesecake
  • Caramelized almonds
  • orange marmalata

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Couscous Salad with Cucumbers, Tomatoes, and Mint

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Ma Belle Mere and her sister Danielle made this salad for my family on a hot summer day in the Loire Valley where we were vacationing. The crunch of cucumber, soft and fruity tomatoes, the sharp tang of capers and lemon juice and fragrant olive oil and mint were refreshing and evocative of Algeria and Italy, where Marie-Paule and Danielle originate.

Julie

INGREDIENTS

  • 1 cup cous cous, (preferably fine grain if you can find it but medium grain will do)
  • 2 pickling cucumbers, peeled and diced small
  • 2 handfuls of cherry tomatoes, quartered
  • 1 tablespoon of small capers, rinsed and drained
  • 1/2 cup good quality extra virgin olive oil
  • fine sea salt to taste
  • freshly ground pepper to taste
  • 1/4 cup diced green Bell pepper
  • 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
  • 1 tablespoon minced fresh mint leaves.

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Veal and Ricotta Meatballs

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The first time I had this dish was with my son Daniel.  We were on a week long eating and walking tour of NYC.  Daniel and I had both researched restaurants and pastry shops but one of the best meals we had, which was not on our list,  was at Vinateria in Harlem.  I ordered an amazing whole grilled Branzino and the young daughter of our friends had meatballs on a bed of Polenta.  She gave me a bite and I dreamt about them for the next two days: tender little meatballs the size of a walnut on a creamy, cheesey bed of polenta with a bright tomatoe sauce.  We went back the night before we left and when I returned home I vowed to recreate them as best I could.

So, here is my version and I think it’s pretty close, but it will never replace the meal I had at this neighborhood bistro with my son, my childhood friend, her lovely husband and charming daughter.

Many of these components can be made ahead of time.  The sauce can be made in advance and frozen.  I make a lot of this sauce in August when the tomatoes are at their peak and I can use locally grown Roma tomatoes.  You will not get the same result with supermarket tomatoes.  The meatballs can be mixed and shaped a day ahead of time and then rolled in flour and fried the day you want to serve.  The meatballs can also be mixed, shaped fried and placed in the tomato sauce a day or two ahead.  I think they actually improve with a 24 hour rest in the sauce.  I have also frozen the meatnalls cooked and in sauce.  They defrost quite well.

Julie

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Caramel and Whiskey Semifreddo

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Makes up to 10 servings

A few years ago my family and I were visiting Ville Franche, a lovely city built into a cliff overlooking the Mediterranean and very close to the Italian border.  After sunbathing, swimming in the sea and marveling at the snap shot Daniel was able to take of an octopus, with his GoPro, we set off to find food.  We settled on an Italian bistro on the boardwalk where we had a wonderful meal of fresh seafood linguini and pizza. The highlight was a caramel semifreddo with nougatine.  Happily, the chef  gave me his recipe although I added the whiskey and my own recipe for caramellized nuts.  I hope when you taste this semifreddo it will transport you to Ville Franche were you can smell the salt water and feel the sun on your face.

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To make the Semifreddo I use a 5″ x 9″ loaf pan, lined with plastic wrap and cut slices from the frozen loaf. You can also forgo lining the pan with plastic wrap (which can produce wrinkles on the final product but they are not very visible because they are on the sides, so really, who cares) but then you’ll have to either dip the mold in hot water for 10 seconds or heat the sides with a blow torch to release the semifreddo from the mold. You can of course use any other mold you like. Silicone molds are nice because they release the semifreddo easily.

Semifreddo is best served slightly softened. By the time you cut the slices and finish plating them they will be at the right consistency.

A note about the use of glucose in this recipe.  If you can’t find glucose you can substitute light corn syrup but keep in mind that corn syrup is sweeter and has more water. The additional water might affect the texture.   Honey or Golden Syrup might be an interesting substitution for the glucose with the same caveat.  Glucose syrup has a neutral flavor and the lowest water content. It can be purchased on line.

This is one of those recipes you can play with. I think a pecan nougatine would be nice Instead of the hazelnuts. It might be fun to substitute some maple syrup for the glucose syrup and black walnuts for the hazelnuts. You can also substitute another spirit for the whiskey. Cognac or calvados or Couintreau.

Julie

Whiskey Caramel Semifreddo Components

Caramel Semifreddo
Caramelized Hazelnuts
Caramel sauce

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Strawberry/Rhubarb Preserves

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Please read my page on Preserving Equipment and Technique before trying this recipe.

I love almost any kind of preserve but I rarely find a Strawberry Preserve that I like. They are almost always sickly sweet and/or overlooked and thus an ugly maroon color. However, there is nothing better on a scone slathered with Devonshire Cream and it is the favorite preserve of my oldest son After many kilos of strawberries I have one that I am proud to offer.

I prefer to use locally grown strawberries at the height of their season which is June in the Midwest. You can use strawberries from California and Florida but even they have a peak season so be sure to taste them. The strawberries should have red shoulders and should taste good eaten out of hand.

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Fig/Earl Grey Preserves

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Please read my page on preserving before attempting this recipe.

I used to limit my choice of fresh figs to the ones my Uncle grows in his back yard or those from a farmer who brings his locally grown figs, called “Chicago Hearty” to market in early September. My Uncle has several fig trees, all children of the fig tree that my Great Grandfather Ben Sala grew in his back yard in Chicago. Great Grandpa Ben grew his fig tree from a cutting he brought with him from Sicily when he immigrated to Chicago, Illinois in 1920. All of my uncles fig trees come from that tree that grew in my great grandpas back yard at Diversey and California. Lately, I’ve been able to find very nice Black Mission figs from California at our local Whole Foods or Trader Joe and they are making very good preserves. Make sure you taste one before you invest in making preserves. They should have some flavor although the flavor will intensify with cooking.

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My family has a long standing love affair with Earl Grey tea. It’s one of my favorite teas to drink. My husbands favorite cake from his childhood was an Earl Grey pound cake from Dalloyau Patisserie in Paris. While they don’t make that pound cake anymore they do make an Earl Grey macaroon which my son loves. I created this preserve for the men in my life.

Julie

FIG/ EARL GREY PRESERVES

  • 1000 grams fresh local figs
  • 800 grams superfine sugar ( Depending on the sweetness of the figs you can reduce to 750 grams but don’t go below that or you’ll risk the integrity of the color and texture).
  • pinch of salt
  • 60 grams fresh lemon juice ( save the rinds, seeds and membranes from the lemons for your pectin bag)
  • 1 Tablespoon of premium Earl Grey tea. I use Earl Grey Royale from The Tea House that has real pieces of bergamot in the tea and not just oil.
    You will also need:
  • A preserving pan
  • An unbleached, food grade muslin bag about 5″x7″.
  • six 6 oz glass jars with lug tops lined with Plastisol ( you will probably only get 5 but I always sterilize an extra one)
  • a 3 quart heat proof container
  • a piece of parchment paper cut to the size of the top of the 3 quart container
  • A heat proof measuring cup
  • a wood skewer
  • a lint free kitchen towel

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Everything Blondies (Brieva Brownies)

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Almost every student who has passed through district 65 and 202 in the past 10 years has at least heard of the legendary Brieva Brownies. For those of us who have had the chance to sink our teeth into one of the intensely rich and sweet Brieva Brownies, it was a life changing experience. I remember the first time I ever had one. It was in 2nd grade and at Kingsley Elementary School. Tess Brieva walked into school that day holding a large tray full of the deep golden brown bars flecked with all the colors of the rainbow. Immediately a crowd of her closest friends who had tried these delicacies before created a circle around her clamoring for them. As someone with a major sweet tooth I quietly sauntered over and asked for one. I took one bite and it was like love at first taste. Warmth and happiness rushed through every cel of my body. From that day on Brieva Brownies have been my favorite dessert, better than anything I could ever make or anything I’ve ever tried at the pastry shops in Paris I eat at every summer.

If you’ve never had a Brieva Brownie before I can’t fully put into words how amazing it is, but I will do my best. The first thing you notice when biting in to them is how perfectly chewy they are. Your teeth slowly sink into them. Then your taste buds are blitzed by deep toffee flavor, sugar and chocolate. The bar is like a sweet buttery vessel for all the toffee bits, chocolate chips, and M&M pieces within it. They’re rich, sinful, decadent, and Brievalicious (I have to make up a word to convey the culinary beauty of these baked goods). You can’t have just one either, they’re so addicting that you keep on eating them until there are none left or your entire body has shut down due to a sugar overdose. Mrs. Brieva should stick warning labels on her brownies that state they are highly addicting and consuming more than 3 at a time may result in instant death.

Brieva Brownies have been my culinary “white whale” for many years now. Every year for my birthday I ask Tess for Brieva Brownies. Whenever they’re available I do anything in my power to obtain at least two. Earlier this year Mrs. Brieva made some for a bake sale, so I drove across Evanston to the bake sale and bought up every Brieva Brownie they had left. Recently just having them wasn’t good enough I needed to be able to make them. I tried reconstructing the recipe 10 times in the span of a month, each time bringing my brownies to school and having Tess and my other friends familiar with Brieva Brownies, taste test them. Each time I came up short. The words “they’re close, but not as good as Mrs. Brieva’s” haunted my sleep. Finally I just gave up.

At the beginning of my Senior Studies project I had a brilliant idea, maybe Mrs. Brieva would teach me how to make her brownies for my project. I contacted her and she happily agreed to bake with me during spring break.

Mrs. Brieva is the epitome of an Evanston hero. She’s a loving mother, coach, and active participant in the community. I’ve known her for a long time, but have never spent much time with her, yet was lovingly greeted as soon as I stepped into the Brieva household. Learning to make Brieva Brownies from the creator and master of the recipe was a truly amazing experience. I find it very interesting how other people bake. I’m someone who pays attention to every little detail and measures out my ingredients very precisely. Mrs. Brieva on the other hand, uses the “eyeball method.” Maybe this difference in baking style was why my brownies always came up short. While she taught me, I quickly jotted down detailed notes so I could remember how to make the brownies since the only original copy of the recipe lies locked in Mrs. Brieva’s head. As we baked we had a really amazing conversation. We talked about my senior studies project and I made my 30-second project pitch to her daughters who went on to follow my instagram and check out my blog. We talked about her amazing kitchen that had 3 ovens and was very high tech and open. She told me that she redid and designed the kitchen when they moved in, much like how my mother gutted our kitchen when we moved into our house and we designed the kitchen so that we could both cook in it together. We also discussed college, and she even helped me decide where to go to college (following her advice, I committed to UW-Madison a couple hours after we finished baking). Finally I came prepared with a few questions I had about Brieva Brownies.

“How long have you been making Brieva Brownies and where did the inspiration come from?”

She responded with a story about her own mother. Apparently, her mother was famous for her chocolate chip cookies. Mrs. Brieva tried and tried and tried to replicate them, but just couldn’t do it. I found this very relatable, since I kept trying to make Brieva Brownies and fell short. Finally, Mrs. Brieva stopped trying to make her mom’s cookies and instead tried a bar and just kept adding in things like m&m’s and toffee bits. I followed up by asking her if she has since tried to make her mother’s cookies and she replied that she is done trying.

“How does it make you feel being known in the community for having the most outstanding baked goods?”

Mrs. Brieva said that it makes her extremely happy. She is happy when other people are happy so she’s glad she can deliver happiness in the form of her brownies. She went on to tell me that she will often gift people with Brieva Brownies for doing good things, whether it is part of the Evanston Angel’s Campaign or to the tech guy at the apple store for helping her out.

“Do you always have ingredients for Brieva Brownies on hand? Do you ever get tired of making them?”

When I asked this question, she had me come look in the corner of the kitchen where there was a stand packed with m&m’s, toffee bits, sugar, and chocolate chips. It was a stand completely dedicated to Brieva Brownie ingredients. There were enough ingredients in this stand to make enough Brieva Brownies to feed everyone in Evanston. Just as she popped the tray of brownies into the oven she turned to me and smiled and answered my last question with a simple “no I love making these.”

I had gotten 2 trays of Brieva Brownies, the story behind them, the recipe for them, and life advice, but there was one more thing I wanted before I left the Brieva household. I was dying for a picture of Mrs. Brieva holding a tray of her brownies. I asked her to be in a picture and immediately she started walking backwards away from me shaking her head and hands and saying “no no no.” Claire Brieva came over to us and said her mom doesn’t do pictures. I pleaded with her to do it for my blog, but it was the one thing she would not budge on. I found this whole situation hilarious and I think it speaks to Mrs. Brieva’s character. She doesn’t like to be in the spotlight or be given gifts or awards, what she truly gets joy from is raising her family and positively touching the lives of everyone around her. I finally settled for a picture of Claire and Jenna Brieva holding the brownies since I was determined to have a Brieva pose for a picture with the famous brownies. I left the house holding 2 trays of baked gold and a promise from Mrs. Brieva that we could bake together again soon; this time I would teach her one of my recipes.

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INGREDIENTS

  • 2 sticks very soft unsalted butter
  • ¾ cup brown sugar + 2 tablespoons
  • ¾ cup white sugar
  • 2 cups flour (use the dip and scoop method to measure)
  • 1 teaspoon baking soda
  • ½ teaspoon salt
  • 2 eggs
  • 1 tablespoon vanilla extract
  • 1 bag milk chocolate chips (12 ounces)
  • 1 bag Heath bar bits or toffee bits
  • 12 ounces mini M&Ms

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Fresh Fettuccine with Lamb Ragu

The difficult and time-consuming process of rolling out fresh pasta by hand is a long lost art. My great grandmother’s pasta making skills were renowned. She stuck to her roots and rolled out her own fresh pasta by hand until the day she passed. As an ode to her memory, I decided to try my own hand at making fresh pasta. Italian blood runs through my veins and making fresh pasta really brought me closer to my heritage and the memory of my great grandmother.

Thankfully pasta machines have been invented which yield pasta just as good as hand rolled. With the pasta machine, it is simple to make your own pasta at home, which is exponentially better than the pasta you buy in a box at the grocery store. The difference between dried pasta and fresh is that dried is made of semolina and water while fresh is made of flour and egg. Fresh pasta is more tender and flavorful than its dried cousin.

To go with my homemade pasta I really wanted to make a sauce. I figured that it would be a shame to dump store bought tomato sauce on my fresh pasta. In my opinion ragus, a tomato based sauce with meat, are the best type of pasta sauces. Bugialli, who is the king of Italian cookbooks, inspired the ragu I made. I used rosemary, onion and pancetta to build a foundation of flavor for my sauce then added in lamb, tomato and chicken broth. I also added a little red chili flakes to add a little punch. The lamb slowly cooks in the sauce creating a stew, slowly getting tender and releasing its flavor into the sauce. The end product is so tasty you could eat it alone as a soup.

While there is art to pasta making, there is also an art to cooking pasta. Pasta is one of the most commonly served dishes in the world and is usually cooked incorrectly. The proper way to cook pasta is to cook it in very salty boiling water until it is 80% done, then drain it, and finish cooking it in sauce. By cooking the pasta in the sauce, it allows for some of the sauce to absorb into the noodles and cling to it. Anytime you have a bowl of pasta with a pool of sauce on the bottom, it was cooked incorrectly.

While making your own pasta and sauce at home is more time consuming then opening a box of dried pasta and a jar of store bought tomato sauce, the reward is well worth the effort and the process is fun.

Daniel

INGREDIENTS

For Ragu

  • 1 ½ pounds boneless lamb shoulder ProTip: Have your butcher remove any silver skin and excess fat and to cut the shoulder into 1 inch cubes.
  • 1 medium red onion diced
  • 1 scant tablespoon finely chopped fresh rosemary
  • 5 ounces pancetta diced
  • ¼ cup olive oil
  • ½ cup dry red wine
  • 2 tablespoons tomato paste
  • 14-ounce can tomatoes crushed ProTip: I like to use whole San Marzano canned tomatoes and then crush them by hand then drain off a majority of the canning liquid.
  • 2 cups low sodium chicken broth
  • ½ teaspoon Calabria chili flakes
  • Salt and pepper to taste

For Pasta:

  • 3 cups unbleached all purpose flour
  • 3 extra large eggs
  • 3 teaspoons olive oil
  • Large pinch salt

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Wild Blueberry-Lemon Muffins

I’ve recently come to realize that the most fun way to bake is creating new recipes and new twists off of old recipes. Once you have a simple foundation of baking and know how different ingredients affect your baked goods, (such as sugar providing sweetness and caramelization; or flour providing structure) you can go off on your own and create unique recipes. I urge all of you to make a few twists to your recipe next time you bake. I’ll admit, that in the past I’ve been guilty of following recipes exactly. Over the past 2 years however, I have been slowly experimenting more and more with baking. Nowadays, I almost never follow recipes and instead I treat the kitchen as my chemistry lab. I like to play with proportions of ingredients and see what will happen if I combine certain flavors. Despite some of my kitchen failures caused by making up recipes as I go, I have invented many successful recipes that are now some of my go to ones.

This particular recipe I’m sharing is one of my most recent concoctions. I started off by flipping through my trusty Baking Bible: Baking Illustrated. I saw they had a recipe for blueberry muffins, which was exactly what I was in the mood for. Upon further review of the recipe it seemed tasty, but a little boring. I wanted to add some excitement to the tired old blueberry muffin stereotype. I knew that lemon and blueberry pair beautifully and the lemon would brighten up the whole muffin so I decided to experiment with a lemon-blueberry muffin. The first time I tried out my idea I simply added some lemon juice and zest to the batter. The extra liquid made the batter too wet and lemon really overpowered the whole muffin. My next thought was to do some sort of lemon sugar topping, but when I tried it the muffin wasn’t lemony enough and the sugar wouldn’t even stick to the cooked muffin tops. I thought about doing a glaze, but it would be way too heavy and sweet to go witht the muffin. Failures when creating a recipe are normal and it’s important to not get down on yourself. The good thing is that my failures were still tasty just not exactly what I was looking for. Luckily for me, the third time was the charm. My final recipe consists of a decadently moist muffin bursting with blueberries that is topped with a sweet and sour lemon syrup and finished with a bright lemon sugar.

Daniel

INGREDIENTS

For Muffins

  • 10 ounces 2 cups unbleached) all-purpose flour
  • 13 grams (1 tablespoon) baking powder
  • 1/2 teaspoon table salt
  • 57 grams (1 large) egg
  • 200 grams (1 cup) granulated sugar
  • 56.5 grams (4 tablespoons) unsalted butter, melted and cooled slightly
  • 283 grams (1 1/4 cups) sour cream
  • 170 grams (1 1/2 cups) frozen blueberries, preferably Wyman’s Wild Blueberries
  • 1 tsp vanilla extract

For lemon Sugar Topping

  • 57.5 grams (¼ cup) lemon juice
  • 150 grams (¾) cup sugar
  • Zest 2 lemons

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Alba Style Rosemary-Sage Beef Risotto

At the young age of 18 my grandmother left home. She was unable to cook despite living in an Italian household.  She realized that she didn’t have her mother to make her delicious Italian meals so she decided to teach herself how to cook. Now 60 years later she is one of the best cooks I know. She learned all of the basics of Northern Italian cooking from Marcella Hazan and Giuliano Bugiali as well as her mother. One of her signature dishes is risotto and whenever I eat this classic Italian rice dish it reminds me of her and what real Italian cuisine is.

This authentic risotto recipe comes from Marcella Hazan. Risotto is an Italian rice dish where liquid is slowly added to the rice allowing it to release starch to create a creamy consistency. Risotto is the epitome of Italian comfort food; it has that decadent stick to your ribs flavor and consistency. It’s also one of those “kitchen sink” recipes , because you can put anything in it. I’ve made mushroom, sausage, and seafood risotto, but my favorite is this beef risotto. This risotto gets its flavor from pancetta (italian bacon), rosemary, sage, and good italian red wine.

People often think of risotto as something that is very difficult and only available at high end restaurants. It’s interesting how in it’s transition from Italy to America, risotto went from a homey comfort food to a glamorous dish served for $30 a plate. The truth is that risotto is very easy to make, it just requires good ingredients and a lot of babysitting of the dish. The risotto basics you need to know to make a good risotto are that it starts with caramelized onions and garlic then the rice is coated in oil and small amounts of liquid are added at a time while constantly stirring the rice. The constant stirring and slowly adding in liquid are where most people take mistakes because they aren’t being patient. Risotto is a dish where lots of love needs to be added. Making risotto is definitely an arm workout, but the reward of a good risotto is well worth the 30 minutes of constantly watching over the risotto.

A risotto dinner is always something to look forward too, but I’ve found the next day is even more exciting. I always save about ⅓ to ¼ of the risotto and stick it in the fridge overnight. The next day for dinner, I like to make arancini. Arancini are fried balls of risotto with a gooey cheese center. Arancini have a crispy outside with a creamy risotto filling and gooey cheese at the center, what could be better?

Daniel

Ingredients

  • 7 cups water mixed with 2 tbsp “Better than Beef Bouillon”
  • 2 cups Italian Arborio rice
  • 3 tablespoons butter
  • ¼ cup olive oil
  • ¼ cup chopped pancetta (plus more for garnish)
  • 1 ½ teaspoons minced garlic
  • ¼ cup finely chopped onion
  • 2 teaspoons chopped rosemary
  • 1 tablespoon chopped sage (plus more for garnish)
  • ½ pound ground beef chuck
  • 1 cup Barolo wine
  • Salt
  • Pepper

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