Gladice is a formidable Frenchwoman who tutored me and my oldest son in French. I met her through a local agency that gave children lessons in cooking, various languages, art and music. Most of the kids were under 6.
Gladice ran her classroom with an iron fist in a velvet glove a la Francaise. Those kids were lined up in neat little rows, all facing her, and were not allowed to speak until spoken to. No bathroom breaks until the designated break time. No arguing, no passing notes, no crying for mom and no mom’s peeking in the door. The mothers were terrified but the kids managed just fine.
At some point Daniel became too old for the class and started tutoring in Gladice’s home and I began lessons as well. It was then that we appreciated her true nature. She was warm, witty and delightful. She treated Daniel like a son and me like a friend. My lesson consisted of sitting on her front porch, drinking iced tea and gossiping in French. My son’s lessons were more structured with grammar and conversation but from time to time she would have some sort of a treat for him. One day she made crepes for him. He raved about them and she kindly gave me the recipe, written in French naturalment.
Crepes are generally pretty straightforward: flour (all purpose, buckwheat or chestnut) eggs, milk and a bit of sugar for sweet crepes. Gladice put in a secret ingredient that made them delightful: a soupçon of rum.
- 1 cup whole milk
- 1 cup water
- 3 whole large eggs
- 1 tablespoon vegetable oil
- 1 tablespoon sugar
- 1 tablespoon dark rum
- Pinch of sea salt
- 1 cup all purpose flour, fluffed up and spooned in
- 1/2 stick of unsalted butter, still wrapped in paper, for the pan
- Jam, granulated sugar and lemon zest and juice, Cointreau, lemon curd or Nutella to finish the crepes.
- Preferably the night before, put the milk, water, eggs, oil, sugar, rum and salt into a blender and blend on low until combined. If you don’t have a blender just wisk the ingredients in a bowl. With blender on low add flour 1/4 cup at a time. Pour in a bowl, cover and place in refrigerator for a few hours or overnight.
- The next day, heat an 8″ blue steel crepe pan or a 10″ non stick skillet over a medium flame
- Stir batter gently to blend.
- Place a bowl of ice cubes near the stove so you can run your fingers on the ice before you lift the crepe to flip it. If you have asbestos fingers you can skip this step.
- Holding the stick of butter by its paper wrapper and using it like a big crayon draw a thin film of butter over the surface of the pan.
- When the butter sizzles, take a quarter cup measure and pour 1/4 cup of crepe batter in the center of the pan. Quickly swirl the batter around the pan and pour any excess back in the bowl.
- Watch the edges of the crepe, when the start to brown and lift from the pan, run an off set spatula around the edges. If you shake the pan and the crepe is sticking anywhere, slip the spatula under the part that is sticking.
- When the crepe is loosened, grasp the edge of the crepe and flip it o we to the other side. Don’t let it brown too much or your crepes won’t be flexible. You just want to make sure that the this side has no raw batter on it and that it’s cooked a little bit. It will be pale, flecked with little brown specks.
- Once the crepes are cooked, you can spread them with whatever you like. We tend to stand around the kitchen grabbing the crepes out of the pan as soon as they are cooked. You can certainly do more elaborate preparations, nicely plated to serve to guests but in a house full of boys, it’s catch as catch can.
I like to rub the zest of a lemon into about 1/2 cup of sugar. I put some sugar on the crepe and sprinkle it with some fresh juice. I fold it in quarters and eat them hot out of the pan. Daniel likes them flambéed with Cointreau. Place the crepe back in the pan, pale side down. Sprinkle with a tablespoon of Cointreau and ignite with a match or tip the edge of the pan towards the burner flame to ignite it. Let the flame die out and spread the crepe with a little melted butter and a squeeze of orange juice. Nutella needs no explanation but to cut the sweetness and add a little crunch I like to sprinkle the crepes with chopped toasted hazelnuts, once I spread the crepe with Nutella. Crepes spread with lemon curd or passion fruit curd (rarebirdpreserves.com) and fresh fruit is also lovely.
Daniel home from college, making crepes.
My Sicilian grandmother didn’t know from Thanksgiving, but she was a great cook and her cranberry relish is the best I’ve ever tasted. It is sweet, sour, crunchy and fresh. It’s a welcome counterpoint to all the heavy Thanksgiving foods: turkey, stuffing, mashed potatoes etc.
There were no food processors back in the day so she used her cast iron, hand cranked meat grinder and sausage maker to grind the cranberries. Now that my grandmother has passed away, I am asked to bring the relish to every Thanksgiving dinner and it is my pleasure and my honor.
- 12oz pkg fresh cranberries
- 1/2 cup granulated sugar
- 1/4 cup diced apple
- 1 juicy navel orange
- 1/4 cup diced celery heart
- 1/4 cup coarsely chopped walnuts (toasted or raw)
- pinch of sea salt
- A few grindings of black pepper
- Wash and dry cranberries. Place in the work bowl of a food processor with the blade attachement and chop course. My grandmother had a hand cranked meat grinder which she used on a medium grind for this purpose. You can also use a stand mixer if you have a grinder attachment or simply chop by hand.
- Place cranberries in a bowl and add the sugar, walnuts, apple, celery, salt and pepper.
- Zest the orange with a micro plane and add half or all to the cranberries. How much you use is a matter of preference. I use half the rind
- Supreme the orange (my grandmother never did this) over the bowl of cranberries to catch the juice. Cut the orange slices in half and to the cranberries. In the picture, I have the oranges in the work bowl but don’t process them in there or you’ll get orange mush.
5. Let macerate for a few hours. The sugar will break down the cranberries and make them juicy and a bit softer. I recommend using the full amount of sugar. If you find it too sweet you can add some lemon juice but it needs the sugar to break down the cranberries.
Daniel is in a cook off with another boy in another fraternity, to raise money for charity. They are allowed a hot plate, a grill and a sous vide, since they both have one. I have to chuckle here as it’s not the customary possession of a college boy and yet, Daniel found possibly the one other boy in this huge University that owned one as well.
The boys were to prepare an entree using pork tenderloin, a side dish and dessert. Daniel is making prosciutto wrapped tenderloin which he will cook to temperature in the sous vide and finish in a hot pan. We discovered this technique at one of Jean-George Vonderrichten’s New York City restaurants, “Nougatine”. We had some unbelievable Berkshire pork chops which were tender with a crisp surface. The sous vide Is perfect for tough cuts of meat, like pork chops, because you can cook them for a long time to tenderize them without overcooking them. In addition to the pork, Daniel will make a butternut squash risotto with rosemary and sage.
I was tasked with finding a desssert that could be made solely on top of the stove, that didn’t require any pre made items or special equipment and could be cooked in 30ish minutes. Hmmm!
My immediate thought was poached fruit served with creme fraiche or Greek yogurt, sprinkled with some lightly toasted nuts for crunch. Too easy! Serious Eats has a skillet cobbler that sounded good but I wanted something that was more Mediterranean in nature. I’d been looking at Mark Bittma’s skillet lemon/almond tart and decided to try that. However, it would have to be adapted as it was cooked for a few minutes in a skillet and spent the rest of the time in the oven to which Daniel would have no access. I’m going to refer to the Bittman tart as a cake because in my mind it’s closer to a cake than a tart. There was also a discrepancy between Mark Bittman’s video and the recipe published by the New York Times that would have to be addressed. The article gives you the option of using 1/2-3/4 cup of sugar and the video calls for 1/2 cup. Since I was going to bake this entirely on the stove top I opted to go with 1/2 cup of sugar in the batter and save the 1/4 cup to sprinkle on top and caramelize. The recipe calls for the juice of one lemon, which I find to be unecesarily imprecise. I did in fact use the juice of a lemon but it was a huge freakin lemon and I think it was more juice than necessary. When I looked at the video it looked like there was twice as much cream as lemon juice and the recipe called for 1/2 cup of juice, so, I figure, 1/4 cup of juice is fine.
The next issue was the cooking method. My Italian grandmother never used her broiler and taught me how to make a frittata using only the stove top and a covered pan. I thought that might work for this dessert which seemed to be essentially a sweet frittata. They key is to put the batter in a non stick pan with sizzling fat (butter or olive oil) so it doesn’t stick and so you can slide it out and flip it back into the pan to brown the other side. Now, if you don’t want to mess around with flipping the cake I don’t think it’s critical. Just make sure you place the cake in the plate so that the browned side is up. This can easily be done by placing a plate on top of the pan and flipping the plate and pan as a unit so the pan ends up on top, the plate on the bottom and the cake drops out of the pan in one piece. If if the cake does’t come out in one nice piece, don’t panic. Smoosh it together, sprinkle some toasted almond slices on top and dust it with powdered sugar, or place the reserved sugar on top and hit it with a blow torch.
- 4 large eggs
- 1/2 cup almond meal
- 1/2 cup sliced almonds plus more for decoration
- 1/2 cup cold whipping cream
- 1/2 cup granulated sugar for batter plus 3 tablespoons for the top
- 1/4 cup cold lemon juice
- zest of 1 large lemon
- pinch of salt
- 2 tablespoons unsalted butter
- Mix eggs until well combined, but not fluffy, into a homogeneous yellow mixture.
- Add the cream, salt, and lemon juice to the eggs and mix well. (Combining lemon juice and cream can curdle the cream. Keeping the ingredients cold reduces the likelihood that will occur. Also, the longer you let the cream and juice sit together the more chance you give the juice to curdle the cream so don’t let the mixture sit around).
- Rub the lemon zest into 1/2 cup of sugar and add to the eggs along with the almond meal and sliced almonds. Combine well
- Heat 2 tablespoons of unsalted butter to an 8″ skillet and melt over medium heat foaming subsides
- Pour batter into the pan and cover it.
- Lower the flame to low.
- Cook for about 5 minutes and check it. You are looking for the liquids to be set. If you stick a wooden skewer into the mixture it should come out with mois crumbs but not wet. If it’s not ready, cover the pan for another 5 minutes and check again.
- When the tart is completely set, loosen the edges from the side of the pan. Take a plate and place it on top of the pan. Take a deep breath, cross your fingers and flip the plate and pan unit upside down so the pan is now on top. With any luck, the tart will release cleanly. If it’s doesn’t scrape out the remainder in the pan and pat it on top of the cake.
- Now you have two options: you can scatter some toasted sliced almonds on top and dust it with powdered sugar or you can sprinkle the top with granulated sugar and caramelize it with a blow torch.
My husband and I love to travel and one of our favorite places is Italy. One year we had the good fortune to stay with a friend of my mother in law in Volterra, famous for its alabaster. Ido graciously lent us his home and moved in with his daughter for the week.
Ido’s home was set in the Tuscan hill side amid peach and olive trees, grape vines and an assortment of vegetables. The house was rustic with terra-cotta colored plaster walls and tile floors. I distinctly remember chasing spiders out of the shower. All the beds in the house were cast iron with metal springs. The dining room table was composed of several planks of wood pegged and doweled together and it was surrounded by tippy little chairs with rush seats. However, we rarely ate in the dining room. There was a little patio on the East side of the house where we took our breakfast and in the evening we went to the patio on the West side of the house and had dinner, watching the sun set and eating Edo’s fresh peaches, soaked in his home made Chianti with a little sugar and lemon juice.
Every day Ido would drop buy bearing a small gift: some potatoes he’d just dug up, those amazing peaches with skin so thin and crisp and flesh so sweet and juicy that it was like biting into a Creme Brûlée with the crack of the sugar and then the unctuous silky cream. Ido made his own wine, olive oil and peach preserves. The peach preserves were lovely and had a distinctive flavor I had not tasted before. I sat him down one day and asked him to reveal the secret of the preserves. “Well”, he said. “I macerate the peaches in sugar and lemon juice overnight. Then I put everything in a big pot and boil it until it thickens. Unfortunately, I’m usually doing several things at the same time and it usually burns. But, I just scrape it up and put it in jars”. So, what was the secret of Ido’s peach preserves? He burnt it and what I was tasting was caramelized sugar.
Ido spoke a bit of French but often mixed it with Italian, creating new words and phrases. For example, he would often say” Va bien” in response to our query, “ How are you”. In Italian one would respond “ Va bene ” and in French one would respond “ Ca va bien”, thus Ido created the new phrase “ Va bien” which we still use with great affection when we speak of him and the enchanted week we spent in his home.
The recipe I’m going to give you is not from Ido, but it is from Lucca, not to far from Volterra and certainly in the style of Ido: excellent ingredients prepared simply. Dinner was served in the garden of a farmhouse which was up a winding rode in the hills of Tuscany. I remember two items from the meal. One was an appetizer of thinly sliced pieces of Lardo. The other a lovely carpaccio of beef. I had never seen carpaccio of beef done with anything other than raw meat so I was happy to see that this was cooked, rare but not mooing.
- 1 lb Eye of round roasted rare and sliced paper thin
- One 5 oz bag arugula
- 4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
- 1-2 teaspoons red wine vinegar
- Hunk of Parmesan Reggiano
- Coarse sea salt
- Freshly ground pepper
- I buy my eye of round at Whole Foods in the deli department. They usually have a nice rare piece and are very happy to slice it. Ask them to slice overlapping pieces onto wax paper and when they have filled up one sheet, put another piece on top and repeat, filling that sheet with overlapping slices. This way, the slices of meat don’t all stick together.
- Dress the arugula with 2 tablespoons of olive oil, the vinegar and a pinch of sea salt.
- Arrange 1/4 of the slices around the edge of the plate, leaving the inside empty. Place a handful of arugula in the center of the plate. With a vegetable peeler, peel large pieces of cheese over the arugula. Sprinkle the meat with some grindings of pepper and drizzle with the rest of the olive oil.
This is my go to candied fruit recipe for pieces of fruit. For whole fruits, like small tangerines or small Forelle pears, I use a longer process that does not entail simmering the fruit. The spices in this recipe can be changed or omitted.
- 5 navel orange
- 1000 grams (4 cups) water
- 470 grams (2 1/3 cup) sugar
- 60 grams (1/4 cup) fresh squeezed lemon juice
- 10 black peppercorns, preferably Tellicherry
- 1 star anise
- pulp from one moist vanilla bean
- Place a large pot of water to boil. I use about a 6 quart pot.
- Cut off a thin slice from the top and bottom of each fruit so that you can see the flesh.
- Working vertically from top to bottom, cut 1” slices of peel off the fruit including a thin slice of the flesh.
- Place the peels in the simmering water and boil for one minute.
- Empty peels and water into a colander.
- Fill pot with fresh water and bring to a simmer. Place peels in water and simmer one minute. Drain peels. Repeat this process 3 more time for oranges and lemons and 4 more times for grapefruit peel which is really bitter. The simmering process accomplishes two things. It removes the bitterness from the peels and it opens the pores of the peel so they can absorb the sugar which candies and preserves the fruit.
- Place the rest of the ingredients in a pot and bring to a simmer. Add the peels, cover and simmer for about 1 1/2 hours until peel is translucent and tender.
- Remove pot from the heat and let it sit out in the counter for 24 hours, covered. At that point, the peel can be placed in jars, with enough of the syrup to cover the peels or the peels can be drained and left on racks to dry. I have jars in my fridge that are about two years old and they still taste amazing. Eventually the syrup tends to crystallize but I simply wash off the syrup and use them. For this dessert, I would take some of the peel, put it on a rack and let it dry for 24 hours. Stick the remaining peels in the fridge for something else down the road. You can dry them and dip them in tempered chocolate, chop them up and use them for fruitcake, use them for a Casatta Siciliana or cannoli. These peels are so much better than anything you can buy. You’ll always want to have them on hand. This preparation also works well with grapefruit, lemons, kumquats and Michigan Sour cherries. You can change the spices, or use no spices at all, and the cooking time will be far less for the small fruits.
Caramelized nuts are a staple, in my opinion. They can be used in pastry applications and also in salads. They’re easy to make either with a dry caramelization method or a syrup. I love the ease of just throwing a bunch of sugar in a pan and caramelizing it but for the nuts, I’ve had more success with using the method below. For some reason, I seem to get a smoother coating over the nuts. The ones in the picture I did with the dry pan method. As you can see they’re a bit gloppy although still delicious.
- 150 grams of room temperature walnut halves
- 70g (1/3 cup) superfine sugar
- 3 tablespoons water
- Place sugar in a small pot and moisten with the water. You need a pot that is big enough so that you can comfortably stir the walnuts. I say this with my burnt finger in a glass of ice water because I used a pan that was too small and touched either a bit or the side of the pan while I was wrestling with the nuts. For this quantity of walnuts, I’d use a 5 cup sauce pan. In order to get a thermometer reading with touching the bottom of the pan, I tip the pan so that the liquid accumulates in one area. Then, it’s deep enough to get a reading without touching the bottom of the pan.
- Place pot on a low flame and swirl the pan by the handle until the sugar is completely dissolved and liquid is clear. Bring syrup to a boil. Dip a heat proof pastry brush in cold water and wash any sugar crystals off the sides of the pot. Cook until the syrup reaches 248 degrees Farenheit.
- Pour in all the walnuts at once and stir with a wooden spoon or silicone spatula to coat nuts with the syrup. The syrup will turn white and crystallize on the surface of the nuts. Keep stirring until the crystals melt and turn a light brown.
- Pour the nuts out on parchment paper or a silicone mat, in a thin layer.
- Try and separate the pieces after a few minutes.
My family loves Earl Grey tea and begged me to try and tackle an ice cream cake with that flavor. Earl Grey tea is a black tea flavored with Bergamot, a citrus fruit. I love the combination of Earl Grey and chocolate. It also works well with other citrus fruits and with nuts, particularly walnuts. So I thought a moist walnut and chocolate cake would be a nice base for the cakes. If you don’t want to make a cake and prefer something crunchy, you can make a chocolate cookie crust. Or, you can do none of the above and just scoop some in a dish and eat it plain or drizzled with sauce
Finding a chocolate cake recipe proved tricky. I didn’t want something too rich, like a brownie. I thought about using my favorite chocolate butter cake recipe but butter cakes don’t like to be cold. They get hard and dry with refrigeration and I wanted to be able to assemble the ice cream on top of the cake and freeze the whole thing. So I started trying chiffon cakes which use oil instead of butter. Oil doesn’t freeze so I figured the cake wouldn’t freeze hard. One recipe by Rose Levy Barenbaum in “The Cake Bible” caught my eye. Apparently when her mother gave her the recipe she told her the texture was perfect even right out of the freezer. So I gave it a shot but it didn’t have a deep enough chocolate flavor and the texture was too fluffy so I tried again, adding another 25 grams of cocoa powder and that seemed to do the trick. It had a deeper chocolate flavor and the texture improved as well.
This recipe makes about a pint of ice cream. The number of cakes you get depends on the size of your molds. I use molds that hold about 4 oz so I get 8 cakes.
Earl Gray Ice Cream Cake Componants
- Earl Gray Ice Cream
- Chocolate walnut chiffon cake
- 1/2 cup Caramelized walnuts ( see my post on Caramelized nuts)
- 1/4 cup chopped candied orange peel (see my post on candied fruit)
- 1 cup Bittersweet chocolate sauce
Chocolate/Walnut Chiffon Cake
- 38g (7 Tablespoons) Cocoa powder
- 88g (6 Tablespoons) water
- 87g bleached cake flour
- 187g (3/4 plus cup 2 tablespoons)superfine sugar
- 1/4 salt
- 1 tsp baking powder
- 1tsp vanilla
- 80.5g (3 Tablespoon) walnut oil
- 27g (1 Tablespoon) Canola oil
- 3 eggs separated (55g)
- 2 additional egg whites (150g)
- 2 grams (1/2 teaspoon plus 1/4 teaspoon) cream of tartar
- Preheat oven to 325 degrees Fahrenheit. Use a 17″x12″ aluminum jelly roll pan lined with a silpat.
- Wisk together flour, salt, baking powder and all but 2 tablespoons of sugar.
- In a separate bowl pour 6 Tablespoons of boiling water over the cocoa powder. Wisk until smooth. Wisk in the three egg yolks, oils and vanilla.
- Make a well in the dry ingredients and pour the chocolate mixture in the middle
- Beat for 1 minute until smooth and glossy.
- In a clean, grease free bowl beat the 5 egg whites at medium speed until foamy. Add cream of tartar. When egg whites are at soft peaks add sugar in a slow stream. Raise beater speed to high and beat to whites to stiff peaks.
- With a balloon wisk fold one quarter of the egg whites into the chocolate mixture to loosen up the batter. Fold in the rest of the whites just until blended.
- Pour batter gently into the sheet pan. Keep the bowl close to the pan so your not deflating the batter by pouring from a great height. Even out batter with an off set spatula.
- Bake for 13 minutes until a tooth pick crumbs out with a few moist crumbs attached to the toothpick.
- Cool to room temperature and freeze. You get a cleaner edge when you cut it frozen.
- Cut to fit the bottoms of your molds.
- Freeze the rounds, separating each one with parchment paper.
Earl Grey Ice Cream
- 3 Tablespoons Earl Grey loose tea (I like the Earl Gray Royal from the Tea House which I buy on line. It has real pieces of dried bergamot as opposed to bergamot oil. I think it makes a difference).
- 400g (2 cups) whole milk
- 300 g (1.5 cups) cream
- 50g (1/4 cup) glucose
- 150g (3/4 cup) granulated sugar
- 100g (5) egg yolks
- 1 tsp commercial stabilizer pereferably Cremodan 30 (optional but recommended)
- Wisk together stabilizer, if using, and sugar. Place milk, cream and glucose in a pot and wisk in sugar.
- Bring to a simmer and stir in tea leaves. Remove from heat, stir in loose tea and cover. Let steep three minutes
- Strain dairy through a fine mesh sieve into a clean pot. Press firmly on tea to release as much flavor as possible. Discard tea leaves.
- Wisk egg yolks in a heat proof bowl. Stir about 1/4 cup of the base into the egg yolks to temper them and gradually wisk in the rest of the base.
- Place mixture in a clean pot and stir constantly on a medium low flame. Cook the mixture at least until 145 degrees to pasturized the yolks. When the mixture coats the back of a spoon and you can draw a line down the center of the spoon’s back and the edges don’t flow back together, the base is done. I’ve seen a lot of ice cream books say you need to cook the mixture until 180 degrees but I don’t think that’s necessary.
- Strain once again through a fine mesh sieve to get rid of any particles of yolk.
- Chill overnight in a covered container.
Bittersweet Chocolate Sauce
I have other hot fudge and chocolate sauces but this one is good for this dessert because it’s a little thinner and has a more delicate chocolate flavor
- 8 oz fine bittersweet chocolate ( not chips but callets are fine. For this sauce I like Callebaut semi sweet chocolate callets)
- 1 cup heavy cream
- 1/4 cup glucose or corn syrup (I prefer glucose as it’s not as sweet and is more viscous)
- Chop chocolate into fine pieces and place in a heat proof container.
- Place glucose and cream in a pot and bring to a simmer.
- Pour hot cream over chocolate. Cover and let sit about five minutes. With a wisk, start from the center of the bowl and gently mix together the chocolate and cream, widening the circle as the mixture begins to amalgamate. The purpose is to get a smooth mixture without air bubbles.
- Refrigerate until needed but warm it up before using.
- Freeze whatever molds you are using whether it’s silicone or a stainless steel loaf pan or ring. I love, love, love silicone as the ice cream pops right out. If I use a loaf pan, I line it with parchment paper. I prefer it to plastic wrap, which wrinkles. Of course, you can go commando and not use a liner but then, in order to unfold, you need to blast the mold with a blow torch or dip it in hot water. Too messy!
- Churn the ice cream and fill the molds.
- Take the cake and presss it gently on top of the mold. When you unfold, the cake will be your base.
- Freeze at least 6 hours
- Unfold and plate. Garnish with toasted walnuts and candied orange peel.
- You can garnish with other sauces as well: fresh oranges poached in orange marmalade and fresh juice, rhubarb compote perfumed with lemon or orange zest. Anything with citrus will work. Just don’t use too much or it will overwhelm the flavor of the tea. In the top photo I used some pink grapefruit which I poached for a minute in some of my blood orange marmalade and a bit of fresh orange juice. If you don’t have blood orange marmalade hanging around strain some Seville orange marmalade, thin it with a bit of fresh juice until you have a saucy consistency and throw in some supremed orange segments. Easy, peasy.