I’m really not a gadget person. I don’t have a lot of pots and pans or electronics. I’m not very technical. That being said, I do have a sous vide and I love it for steaks, chops that need to be tenderized, shrimp and lobster tails.
And now, curds. The texture of a curd made in a sous vide has a silky quality that is difficult if not impossible to achieve on a stove top. You do have to wait. It takes an hour to cook as opposed to 15-20 minutes in a heavy pot or a Bain Marie. I think the texture is worth the wait. The original recipe was on the Chef Steps website and was for a lemon curd which is just as amazing. I substituted Yuzu and I altered the way the ingredients are processed before being cooked. In my eyes, that gives me bragging rights.
You can fill little tarts with this curd, layer it between sponge cake, serve it with fresh fruit, make a pavlova or stand at the kitchen counter and eat it with a spoon.
The following recipe makes about six 3″ tarts or one 9″ tart
- 175 grams sugar
- 75 grams of first press Yuzu juice
- 75 grams Yakimi Orchard Yuzu puree
- 200 grams unsalted butter, melted and cooled but still liquid
- 129 grams egg yolk (about 8)
- 1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice
- 1/4 teaspoon asorbic acid (you can usually get this wherever they sell preserving supplies)
- Set your sous vide circulator to 167 degrees
- Mix sugar, butter, salt, and asorbic acid together. Wisk into egg yolks
- Place mixture in a plastic zip lock bag and slowly lower the bag into the water with the top open until the water reaches the bottom of the ziplock mechanism. Be careful not to get water in the bag. Slowly zip up the bag and let it drop into the water.
- Cook for 60 minutes
- Empty contents of bag into a high sided bowl and use an immersion blender to mix the mixture for 1 minute. It will lighten in co,or and become homogeneous.
- Place curd in a container. Rap it on the counter a few times to get rid of any air bubbles or you can pulse a blow torch briefly across the top and that will do the same thing.
- Lay some plastic wrap right on top of the curd to prevent a skin from forming. Chill a few hours until it’s cold and firm.
Use your favorite or try the one I have posted on this blog
2 mangos, preferably Champaigne Mangos, cubed small ( they should yield to slight pressure and the skin should be tight and smooth and yellow for the Champagne mangos)
tart glaze ( use the one I have on the blog or your favorite.
- Fill your tart/tartlettes with the curd leaving yourself 1/8″ rim. This allows the glaze somewhere to go other than down the sides of your crust. I like using a piping bag with an 808 tip or just cut the end off the bag.
- Place a perimeter of raspberries around the outer edge
- Fill the center of the raspberries with the cubes of mango
- Glaze lightly, making sure you cover the fruit as well as the cream. You can test the glaze by heating it u til it’s a liquid consistency and painting a spare raspberry with a brush dipped in glaze. If it pearls up or dries gloppy, thin your glaze with water. You want the glaze to just stick to the fruit.
for the 9″ tart, I used one pint of Strawberries and about three Champagne mangos. Cut the mango off the center seed, lengthwise in two cheek. Then, peel off the skin with a very sharp paring knife. Next, cut each half lengthwise in very thin slices. The thinner the slices, the more flexible they will be and the more rose like. The rest you can infer from the picture.
I love curds: lemon, lime, grapefruit and passion fruit all make great curds because they are sour. I recently came across cranberry curd tart recipes in The New York Times and the magazine ” Bake”. There are some differences in both those recipes and I also made some changes. the biggest difference is that I add the butter last, not first. This improves the texture of the cream.
This is a nice curd to do around the holidays. Both pomegranates and cranberries are in the stores fresh, from November-December which makes it a nice seasonal dessert.
CRANBERRY AND POMEGRANATE TARTS
- 8 fully baked Pate Sucree 4″ tart shells or one 9″ tart shell ( see recipe on another page of my blog
- 340 grams (12 oz ) fresh cranberries
- 200 grams (1 cup) granulated sugar
- Zest of one large naval orange
- Juice of one large naval orange and enough lemon juice to make up a 165 grams 1/2 cup) of liquid.
- 114 grams (2 large) eggs
- 36 grams (2) large egg yolks
- 113 grams (1/2 cup ) unsalted butter cut in to 16 pieces
- Rub the sugar and orange zest between your fingers to release the orange oil.
- Combine sugar, zest, orange juice, and cranberries in a 1 quart sauce pan and bring to a simmer.
- Simmer cranberries for between 5 and 8 minutes u til most of the cranberries have popped and released their liquid. Be careful not to overcook.
- Run cranberries through a food mill with the finest disc. Discard the skins that won’t push through.
- Crack eggs and combine the whole eggs and yolks, wisking until homogenous.
- Temper eggs with some of the hot cranberry mixture and combine the rest of the cranberries and eggs.
- Place cranberry/egg mixture in a clean 1 quart sauce pan and cook over low to medium heat depending on your comfort level, wisking constantly. I like to use medium heat because I’m impatient but I always have a an immersion blender and a cold, wet towel folded on the counter near the stove. If it looks like it’s going to curdle I remove the pan from the heat and place it on the cold towel and whisk like crazy or use the immersion blender to smooth out the mixture.
- Wisk until thickened. The mixture should reach about 170 degrees and your wisk should leave tracks in the curd.
- Run curd through a fine meshed sieve and let cool to about 140 F.
- Using an immersion blender, blend butter in to curd, 4 pieces at a time. Once butter is incorporated blend another 3 minutes. This aerates the cream and makes it light and smooth. It also lightens the color so if you want a deeper color, just wisk the butter in gently.
- Pour curd into pre baked tart shell and smooth it with an offset spatula.
- Now, you have the option of popping the filled tart into a 350 F degree oven for about 8 minutes to set the curd and make it easier to slice. I wouldn’t bother doing this with the small tarts but for a large tart that you have to cut into individual pieces, there’s an argument for baking. It does change the texture of the curd a bit, losing some of that unctuous creaminess. This curd is fairly stiff so you will be able to slice it without baking it, but if you need super clean edges, setting the curd in the oven is the way to go. If you bake it, let it cool before you put the pomegranate seeds on it.
- Decoratively place some pomegranate seeds around the perimeter of the tart and chill until service.
- To plate this, you could serve it with a dollop of whipped cream on the side, or you could buy extra cranberries, make a coulis and use the coulis do some decorative smears on the plate. For the coulis, I would buy extra cranberries and repeat the first three steps of this recipe, however, instead of running the mixture through a food mill and pushing it through a sieve, I would place the mixture in a medium sieve and let the juices drip through, pushing gently on the cranberries. The goal is to get a pretty clear juice, not a purée.
I am revisiting this recipe having just done a lemon curd and then a Yuzu curd sous vide. I’ll be trying this curd as well, or, if anyone tries it before me let me know how it works. I would make the following changes: once you’ve extracted the cranberry juice, let it cool to room temp and mix it with the egg yolks and whole eggs and butter that has been melted and cooled to room temp. Place all in a ziplock bag and proceed as per the instructions for the Yuzu curd on my blog.
If this doesn’t work, I’d replace the whole eggs with 4 yolks in addition to the two yolks already called for in this recipe.
This is quite a lovely recipe a version, of which was originally printed in The NY Times with the title “Plum Torte” and is deserving of all its devoted followers. It’s very like a cake my Sicilian grandmother used to make with apples. I made it last week and again this week. I’m obsessed! Fortunately, the season for Stanley plums, commonly known as Italian prune plums is coming to an end.
The NY Times recipe has a few versions, published at varying times. Depending on the publication, the cinnamon varies between 1 teaspoon of cinnamon and 1 tablespoon. The sugar varies between 1cup and 3/4 cup. I think 3/4 cup of sugar is plenty sweet and 1 teaspoon of cinnamon is likewise enough. The recipe doesn’t call for any flavoring in the cake, just cinnamon sugar on top. I love a combination of cinnamon, star anise and vanilla for plums and often make plum preserves with these flavors. So I added a bit of vanilla to the batter and added some star anise to the cinnamon and sugar that’s sprinkled on top. I also changed the granulated sugar to sanding sugar for the top as I like a bigger crunch.
The original recipe also gives you a choice of baking in an 8″, 9″ or 9″ springform pan. I think 10″ would be too big because the resulting cake would be very flat and 8″ too small because there wouldn’t be enough of the crusty top or enough plums. 9″ is just right. The original recipe calls for unbleached AP flour but I prefer bleached for cakes. It gives a more tender crumb. Finally, the NYT recipe doesn’t call for any salt. I salt everything so I added a pinch.
- 150 grams (3/4 cup) superfine granulated white sugar
- 114 grams, 4 oz unsalted butter, softened
- 125 grams (1 cup)bleached AP flour
- 1 tsp baking powder
- 2 large eggs
- 12 italian plums (Stanley), halved and pitted (24 halves)
- Pinch of salt (1/8 tsp)
- 1/2 teaspoon vanilla
- teaspoon Ceylon cinnamon
- 1/8 teaspoon ground star anise
- 3 tablespoons of sanding sugar or granulated for sprinkling on top.
- 1/2 a small lemon (this yields roughly 2 teaspoons lemon juice
- Preheat oven to 350 degrees
- Wisk together the 3 tablespoons of sugar and the spices
- Line the bottom of a 9″ Springform pan with a round of parchment. If it’s nonstick, you needn’t grease the sides otherwise grease and flour the sides of the pan.
- Cream the sugar and butter until light and silky
- Add in eggs, one at a time, reading until light and fluffy
- Wisk together flour, baking powder and salt. Sift over top of batter and beat gently to combine.
- Spoon batter into your greased springform pan, leveling the top with an off set spatula.
- Place plum halves on top of the batter with the skin-side up.
- Squeeze some lemon juice over the top
- Sprinkle with the spiced sugar.Bake for about an hour, until the top is brown and a toothpick come out clean. I have some more ideas for this cake and for me this is the most interesting part of cooking and baking: using a tried and true recipe as a jumping off point for more exploration. Let me know if you try them:
- Put the spices and vanilla in the cake and sprinkle the top with lemon sugar ( rub grated lemon rind in the sugar) It will be prettier than using cinnamon in the sugar you sprinkle.
- Use some almond extract in the batter instead of vanilla. Substitute almond flour for some of the AP flour. This would be good with plums, peaches and apricots. You’d have to play with this. Almond flour will give the cake less structure and is less absorbent than AP flour. It might result in a denser, more buttery cake.
- Walnuts are also great with plums. Use some ground walnuts in the batter and substitute some walnut oil for the butter. It won’t be a 1-1 ratio. Butter has some water and oil does not. I would suggest using about 2 tablespoons of oil and cutting back the butter to 5 tablespoons. Same caveats as above with substituting almond flour.
- This cake might work well with apricots as well although apricots are dryer than plums. I’d try poaching them in a soaking syrup with lemon rind and juice just until they soften a bit, then drain them and use the partially cooked apricots. I’d put ginger or almond oil or both in the batter.
- Sour cherries might be good but you would probably need a bit more sugar on top. Also, cherries are very juicy and for opposite reasons than the apricot, one might need to roast them in the oven for about five minutes and drain them so as to eliminate some of the juice.
Daniel is in a cook off with another boy in another fraternity, to raise money for charity. They are allowed a hot plate, a grill and a sous vide, since they both have one. I have to chuckle here as it’s not the customary possession of a college boy and yet, Daniel found possibly the one other boy in this huge University that owned one as well.
The boys were to prepare an entree using pork tenderloin, a side dish and dessert. Daniel is making prosciutto wrapped tenderloin which he will cook to temperature in the sous vide and finish in a hot pan. We discovered this technique at one of Jean-George Vonderrichten’s New York City restaurants, “Nougatine”. We had some unbelievable Berkshire pork chops which were tender with a crisp surface. The sous vide Is perfect for tough cuts of meat, like pork chops, because you can cook them for a long time to tenderize them without overcooking them. In addition to the pork, Daniel will make a butternut squash risotto with rosemary and sage.
I was tasked with finding a desssert that could be made solely on top of the stove, that didn’t require any pre made items or special equipment and could be cooked in 30ish minutes. Hmmm!
My immediate thought was poached fruit served with creme fraiche or Greek yogurt, sprinkled with some lightly toasted nuts for crunch. Too easy! Serious Eats has a skillet cobbler that sounded good but I wanted something that was more Mediterranean in nature. I’d been looking at Mark Bittma’s skillet lemon/almond tart and decided to try that. However, it would have to be adapted as it was cooked for a few minutes in a skillet and spent the rest of the time in the oven to which Daniel would have no access. I’m going to refer to the Bittman tart as a cake because in my mind it’s closer to a cake than a tart. There was also a discrepancy between Mark Bittman’s video and the recipe published by the New York Times that would have to be addressed. The article gives you the option of using 1/2-3/4 cup of sugar and the video calls for 1/2 cup. Since I was going to bake this entirely on the stove top I opted to go with 1/2 cup of sugar in the batter and save the 1/4 cup to sprinkle on top and caramelize. The recipe calls for the juice of one lemon, which I find to be unecesarily imprecise. I did in fact use the juice of a lemon but it was a huge freakin lemon and I think it was more juice than necessary. When I looked at the video it looked like there was twice as much cream as lemon juice and the recipe called for 1/2 cup of juice, so, I figure, 1/4 cup of juice is fine.
The next issue was the cooking method. My Italian grandmother never used her broiler and taught me how to make a frittata using only the stove top and a covered pan. I thought that might work for this dessert which seemed to be essentially a sweet frittata. They key is to put the batter in a non stick pan with sizzling fat (butter or olive oil) so it doesn’t stick and so you can slide it out and flip it back into the pan to brown the other side. Now, if you don’t want to mess around with flipping the cake I don’t think it’s critical. Just make sure you place the cake in the plate so that the browned side is up. This can easily be done by placing a plate on top of the pan and flipping the plate and pan as a unit so the pan ends up on top, the plate on the bottom and the cake drops out of the pan in one piece. If if the cake does’t come out in one nice piece, don’t panic. Smoosh it together, sprinkle some toasted almond slices on top and dust it with powdered sugar, or place the reserved sugar on top and hit it with a blow torch.
- 4 large eggs
- 1/2 cup almond meal
- 1/2 cup sliced almonds plus more for decoration
- 1/2 cup cold whipping cream
- 1/2 cup granulated sugar for batter plus 3 tablespoons for the top
- 1/4 cup cold lemon juice
- zest of 1 large lemon
- pinch of salt
- 2 tablespoons unsalted butter
- Mix eggs until well combined, but not fluffy, into a homogeneous yellow mixture.
- Add the cream, salt, and lemon juice to the eggs and mix well. (Combining lemon juice and cream can curdle the cream. Keeping the ingredients cold reduces the likelihood that will occur. Also, the longer you let the cream and juice sit together the more chance you give the juice to curdle the cream so don’t let the mixture sit around).
- Rub the lemon zest into 1/2 cup of sugar and add to the eggs along with the almond meal and sliced almonds. Combine well
- Heat 2 tablespoons of unsalted butter to an 8″ skillet and melt over medium heat foaming subsides
- Pour batter into the pan and cover it.
- Lower the flame to low.
- Cook for about 5 minutes and check it. You are looking for the liquids to be set. If you stick a wooden skewer into the mixture it should come out with mois crumbs but not wet. If it’s not ready, cover the pan for another 5 minutes and check again.
- When the tart is completely set, loosen the edges from the side of the pan. Take a plate and place it on top of the pan. Take a deep breath, cross your fingers and flip the plate and pan unit upside down so the pan is now on top. With any luck, the tart will release cleanly. If it’s doesn’t scrape out the remainder in the pan and pat it on top of the cake.
- Now you have two options: you can scatter some toasted sliced almonds on top and dust it with powdered sugar or you can sprinkle the top with granulated sugar and caramelize it with a blow torch.
My family loves Earl Grey tea and begged me to try and tackle an ice cream cake with that flavor. Earl Grey tea is a black tea flavored with Bergamot, a citrus fruit. I love the combination of Earl Grey and chocolate. It also works well with other citrus fruits and with nuts, particularly walnuts. So I thought a moist walnut and chocolate cake would be a nice base for the cakes. If you don’t want to make a cake and prefer something crunchy, you can make a chocolate cookie crust. Or, you can do none of the above and just scoop some in a dish and eat it plain or drizzled with sauce
Finding a chocolate cake recipe proved tricky. I didn’t want something too rich, like a brownie. I thought about using my favorite chocolate butter cake recipe but butter cakes don’t like to be cold. They get hard and dry with refrigeration and I wanted to be able to assemble the ice cream on top of the cake and freeze the whole thing. So I started trying chiffon cakes which use oil instead of butter. Oil doesn’t freeze so I figured the cake wouldn’t freeze hard. One recipe by Rose Levy Barenbaum in “The Cake Bible” caught my eye. Apparently when her mother gave her the recipe she told her the texture was perfect even right out of the freezer. So I gave it a shot but it didn’t have a deep enough chocolate flavor and the texture was too fluffy so I tried again, adding another 25 grams of cocoa powder and that seemed to do the trick. It had a deeper chocolate flavor and the texture improved as well.
This recipe makes about a pint of ice cream. The number of cakes you get depends on the size of your molds. I use molds that hold about 4 oz so I get 8 cakes.
Earl Gray Ice Cream Cake Componants
- Earl Gray Ice Cream
- Chocolate walnut chiffon cake
- 1/2 cup Caramelized walnuts ( see my post on Caramelized nuts)
- 1/4 cup chopped candied orange peel (see my post on candied fruit)
- 1 cup Bittersweet chocolate sauce
Chocolate/Walnut Chiffon Cake
- 38g (7 Tablespoons) Cocoa powder
- 88g (6 Tablespoons) water
- 87g bleached cake flour
- 187g (3/4 plus cup 2 tablespoons)superfine sugar
- 1/4 salt
- 1 tsp baking powder
- 1tsp vanilla
- 80.5g (3 Tablespoon) walnut oil
- 27g (1 Tablespoon) Canola oil
- 3 eggs separated (55g)
- 2 additional egg whites (150g)
- 2 grams (1/2 teaspoon plus 1/4 teaspoon) cream of tartar
- Preheat oven to 325 degrees Fahrenheit. Use a 17″x12″ aluminum jelly roll pan lined with a silpat.
- Wisk together flour, salt, baking powder and all but 2 tablespoons of sugar.
- In a separate bowl pour 6 Tablespoons of boiling water over the cocoa powder. Wisk until smooth. Wisk in the three egg yolks, oils and vanilla.
- Make a well in the dry ingredients and pour the chocolate mixture in the middle
- Beat for 1 minute until smooth and glossy.
- In a clean, grease free bowl beat the 5 egg whites at medium speed until foamy. Add cream of tartar. When egg whites are at soft peaks add sugar in a slow stream. Raise beater speed to high and beat to whites to stiff peaks.
- With a balloon wisk fold one quarter of the egg whites into the chocolate mixture to loosen up the batter. Fold in the rest of the whites just until blended.
- Pour batter gently into the sheet pan. Keep the bowl close to the pan so your not deflating the batter by pouring from a great height. Even out batter with an off set spatula.
- Bake for 13 minutes until a tooth pick crumbs out with a few moist crumbs attached to the toothpick.
- Cool to room temperature and freeze. You get a cleaner edge when you cut it frozen.
- Cut to fit the bottoms of your molds.
- Freeze the rounds, separating each one with parchment paper.
Earl Grey Ice Cream
- 3 Tablespoons Earl Grey loose tea (I like the Earl Gray Royal from the Tea House which I buy on line. It has real pieces of dried bergamot as opposed to bergamot oil. I think it makes a difference).
- 400g (2 cups) whole milk
- 300 g (1.5 cups) cream
- 50g (1/4 cup) glucose
- 150g (3/4 cup) granulated sugar
- 100g (5) egg yolks
- 1 tsp commercial stabilizer pereferably Cremodan 30 (optional but recommended)
- Wisk together stabilizer, if using, and sugar. Place milk, cream and glucose in a pot and wisk in sugar.
- Bring to a simmer and stir in tea leaves. Remove from heat, stir in loose tea and cover. Let steep three minutes
- Strain dairy through a fine mesh sieve into a clean pot. Press firmly on tea to release as much flavor as possible. Discard tea leaves.
- Wisk egg yolks in a heat proof bowl. Stir about 1/4 cup of the base into the egg yolks to temper them and gradually wisk in the rest of the base.
- Place mixture in a clean pot and stir constantly on a medium low flame. Cook the mixture at least until 145 degrees to pasturized the yolks. When the mixture coats the back of a spoon and you can draw a line down the center of the spoon’s back and the edges don’t flow back together, the base is done. I’ve seen a lot of ice cream books say you need to cook the mixture until 180 degrees but I don’t think that’s necessary.
- Strain once again through a fine mesh sieve to get rid of any particles of yolk.
- Chill overnight in a covered container.
Bittersweet Chocolate Sauce
I have other hot fudge and chocolate sauces but this one is good for this dessert because it’s a little thinner and has a more delicate chocolate flavor
- 8 oz fine bittersweet chocolate ( not chips but callets are fine. For this sauce I like Callebaut semi sweet chocolate callets)
- 1 cup heavy cream
- 1/4 cup glucose or corn syrup (I prefer glucose as it’s not as sweet and is more viscous)
- Chop chocolate into fine pieces and place in a heat proof container.
- Place glucose and cream in a pot and bring to a simmer.
- Pour hot cream over chocolate. Cover and let sit about five minutes. With a wisk, start from the center of the bowl and gently mix together the chocolate and cream, widening the circle as the mixture begins to amalgamate. The purpose is to get a smooth mixture without air bubbles.
- Refrigerate until needed but warm it up before using.
- Freeze whatever molds you are using whether it’s silicone or a stainless steel loaf pan or ring. I love, love, love silicone as the ice cream pops right out. If I use a loaf pan, I line it with parchment paper. I prefer it to plastic wrap, which wrinkles. Of course, you can go commando and not use a liner but then, in order to unfold, you need to blast the mold with a blow torch or dip it in hot water. Too messy!
- Churn the ice cream and fill the molds.
- Take the cake and presss it gently on top of the mold. When you unfold, the cake will be your base.
- Freeze at least 6 hours
- Unfold and plate. Garnish with toasted walnuts and candied orange peel.
- You can garnish with other sauces as well: fresh oranges poached in orange marmalade and fresh juice, rhubarb compote perfumed with lemon or orange zest. Anything with citrus will work. Just don’t use too much or it will overwhelm the flavor of the tea. In the top photo I used some pink grapefruit which I poached for a minute in some of my blood orange marmalade and a bit of fresh orange juice. If you don’t have blood orange marmalade hanging around strain some Seville orange marmalade, thin it with a bit of fresh juice until you have a saucy consistency and throw in some supremed orange segments. Easy, peasy.